Delta
folks refer to the roads and highways
here as "asphalt sloughs," such
is our water orientation. You can
cruise the asphalt sloughs in your
Corvette, your Winnebego, your Harley-Davidson,
or even on board your Schwinn and
gain a wonderful feel for the place.
Bicyclists particularly like the
flat lands of the California Delta
and almost never are pumping uphill.
All
the resorts except (Lost Isle and Franks
Tract) are accessible by car or bicycle.
Because the Delta area is mostly comprised
of flat land, some parts are ideal
for bicycling. Here we highlight several
drive tours that are particularly enticing.
Rio
Vista-Ryde Loop. This
is the coolest wheeled trip in
the Delta, which can be accomplished
in an easy couple of hours, but
could ideally occupy most of
your day if you stop to tarry
a bit. (Portions of it also are
very popular with folks on bicycles.)
Heading west on Hwy 12 over the
Rio Vista Bridge, take the first
right turn after crossing the
bridge and follow the signs to
the Ryer Island Ferry. This free-running, Real
McCoy diesel-powered ferry
will take you over Cache Slough
to Ryer Island. The ride is free.
You might see a freighter either
heading to or returning from
the Port of Sacramento.
Turn
right after exiting the ferry and follow
the winding levee road. It will lead
you to the lower end of Ryer Island.
It then makes an easy U-turn to take
you up the waters of historic Steamboat
Slough, where in the 1850s noted paddlewheel
steamboats such as the Yosemite and
the New World enjoyed the
slough for the shortcut it provided
over the longer route on the Sacramento,
then referred to as "the old river."
You'll
pass Snug Harbor on your right, a comfortable
Marina and RV park, situated on a tree-shaded
island accessed by a private bridge.
It has a small store and snack bar,
and overnight cabins called "Snuggle
Inns". If you continue along the
levee road, you'll come upon the J-Mack,
a cable-guided ferry that will give
you a free ride across Steamboat Slough.
(RVs can safely cross on these ferries
without difficulty.)
After
exiting the ferry on the opposite shore,
you can turn right and proceed for
a mile or so to the county-operated
Hogback Park, a beautiful tree-shaded
park with launching and areas ideal
for picnicking. Hog's Back, as it was
called in the old days, was a nefarious
sandbar that in its time snagged many
a steamboat. The early steamboats used
to try to plan their schedules so they
would pass Hog's Back at high tide.
Backtrack
now, passing the ferry landing heading
upstream on Steamboat. You'll pass
the 58-room Grand Island Mansion, straight
out of a movie about the antebellum
south. These days, it is the site formany
weddings. You can enjoy Sunday brunch
there as well. It also has a boat dock.
Continuing
up the slough, you will meet the Sacramento
River at the mouth of the slough, crossing
the slough over an aged double-leaf
bascule-type drawbridge, and then proceed
upriver, now on the west bank. Next,
you will take a right turn over the
Paintersville Bridge, named after Levi
Painter, who it is said kept his riches
in postholes underneath the fence posts.
On the far side of the bridge, if you
turn left and take a little aside,
you'll find sleepy Courtland, the pear
capital of the universe (or so Courtland
folks like to say). They stage the
Courtland Pear Fair here every year
the last Sunday in July.
If
you instead turned right after crossing
the bridge, you would meander along
the river on Hwy 160, bound for the
Chinese hamlet of Locke. The town was
built by the Chinese in 1915 when their
Chinatown in neighboring Walnut Grove
burned. There are art galleries in
Locke, and one of the best known saloon-restaurants
in the Delta, Al-The-Wop's. Here, you'll
find a jar of peanut butter and a jar
of marmalade on every table. Here too
is the Dai Loy museum, a resurrected
Chinese gambling hall.
Another
mile down the "asphalt slough" brings
you to Walnut Grove. There is a collection
of interesting restaurants here, and
places to shop. Cross
the green bascule bridge to the other
side of the river, and take a left.
You are bound for the two-dog town
of Ryde. You can't miss it. There's
a big water tower by the 32-room Ryde
Hotel, a good place to dine, or stay
for a day or a week, to maybe play
on its smallish 9-hole golf course.
Continue
downriver, and at the next golden-colored
bascule bridge, turn left onto the
bridge, and once again cross the river.
Then turn right to Isleton, home of
the annual 3-day Isleton Crawdad Festival
on Father's Day weekend in June. Isleton
has an active Chinatown, with many
renovated shops. The Hotel Del Rio
is the favored watering hole in Isleton.
Continue down river some more, passing
Vieira's Resort, established long ago
by immigrants from the Azores and a
fun resort to visit (they have rental
cabins as well as an RV park). Continue
down stream, until you see the towering
Rio Vista Bridge. You have come full
circle, crossing five drawbridges and
two ferries in the process. Wasn't
that a lotta fun?
Where
The Windsurfers Fly. It's
just a short easy drive, but
when the wind is blowing, the
drive is like entering into another
world. From the Rio Vista Bridge
and Hwy 12, head toward Antioch
on Hwy 160. You are on the east
bank of the river. You will pass
Brannan Island State park, and
on the right just across from
the park Windy Beach, a windsurfer's
hangout.
You
will cross over the lift bridge on
Threemile Slough. A little aside to
the left after crossing the bridge
will take you to Outrigger Marina,
home of the giant sturgeon (mounted
on wall at the marina). Rest a spell
and have a hamburger and a beverage
on the Super Deck. Back on Hwy 160,
continue south. Out on the river, you
will see more windsurfers (aka boardsailors).
When the roadway bears left, just ease
right folllowing the river, in what
is almost a straight. You have entered
into "boardhead" territory.
Out
on the water, they are everywhere,
like flying fish. They have favorite
launching sites, with names like "the
powerlines", like "refrigerator
beach" etc. These are amiable
places, where they can find a parking
spot for the van or pickup and a beach
friendly enough for launching. In an
earlier time, they could have been
flower children. No fat on these people.
They are fit.
You
continue along the road. More of the
same. Toward the end there is a county
park, which includes a launching ramp.
Ease left a bit instead of going to
the park and you find Sherman Lake
Marina. Stop for a snack. Although
you feel like you are on an alien planet,
you find that here the spoken language
is English. Of sorts. No loop here.
You have to run back over the same
territory to get to Hwy 160. Take a
right onto the highway.
If
you are still adventurous, you can
drive by the vegetable stand with all
the animals, then take a left turn
and eventually end up at Eddo's Boat
Harbor. There hasn't been anyone name
Eddo here for years. This is the San
Joaquin River now. If it is in the
fall of the year, the stripers will
be running and there will be anglers
around. The resort has launching and
a comfortable RV park.Back on Hwy 160,
you are almost to the Antioch Bridge,
which looks a lot like a giant
dinosaur ambling across the flatlands,
I think. This is a toll bridge. You
are in the free direction. Off to the
right, maybe you can catch a glimpse
of the ferryboat Sausalito,
built in 1885. For over 50 years, it
has been the clubhouse for the Sportsmen
Yacht Club. It does not float anymore.
Well, we cannot say that for sure.
(For more information on Delta windsurfing,
be sure to check out our Windsurfing page.
To
The Ghost Town Of Collinsville. Rio
Vista is a nice place from which
to start this cruise. The town
is pretty, with the Montezuma Hills
as a backdrop. Part of the movie Howard
The Duck was filmed in Rio
Vista. The movie flopped, but you
can't blame Rio Vista for that.
Down by the water, you can see
a monument to Humphrey The Wayward
Whale. And another commemorating
Rio Vista as a stop for the paddlewheelers
that carried the Pony Express mail
on its last leg from Sacramento
to San Francisco. Etched in the
monument is a likeness of the paddlewheeler New
World, which was brought from
New York around the Horn by Captain
Ned Wakeman. The Rio Vista Museum
provides you with a nice look at
the past. The Point is a good restaurant
on the downstream edge of town.
Out on Hwy 12, then proceed west,
being sure to abide by the speed
limits.
You
are driving through rolling hills.
This is sheep country, although plenty
of natural gas has been found here
also. Watch carefully for the road
sign and turn left on Collinsville
Road. You are heading for Birds Landing,
which is the smallest town in the U.S.A.
with its own post office. Clint Eastwood
filmed part of the movie Bird (about
saxophonist Charlie Parker) here. Blink
and you will miss Birds Landing. There's
a little saloon here, comfortable enough
for the entire family to take on refreshment.
Turn
left and in no time at all you will
pass the cemetery up on the hill and
arrive at Collinsville. Maybe there's
a half-dozen homes there still occupied.
Squint your eyes down a bit and imagine
this town with maybe 600 people here,
most all of them commercial fishermen;
with 598 of them speaking Italian,
everyone except Pat Simpson and his
father. Think of it with a boardwalk
serving as the main street and imagine
the sounds of Model T Fords rumbling
over the boardwalks. By the 1950s,
commercial fishing in the Delta was
pretty much over. The town withered
and died. Well, a little marina named
Collinsville Resort lived on a bit
longer. The gang who hung out there
called themselves the Collinsville
River Rats. The place closed, maybe
a dozen years ago.
On
the way back out of town, hang a left
and it will lead you to a nice newish
little park down by Montezuma Slough
(tiny guest dock). You will see the
giant gates across the slough that
work to keep fresh water in the nearby
marshlands. There is a lock so boats
can lock through when the gates are
closed. Tarry a spell at the park.
Backtrack to Hwy 12, and if you are
in the mood to, turn left (west) and
proceed a few miles to the Rio Vista
Junction Railroad Museum, run by volunteers.
They have some rolling stock there.
You can take a ride on a trolley, and
on special occasions, long railroad
excursions.
That's
the end of this cruise, although you
could continue west on Hwy 12 to Suisun
City, and maybe stop by the city's
excellent new marina to sip a beverage
or have a bite to eat at sidewalk tables
in a restaurant, and soak up the scenery
of the harbor.
The
Delta Loop. This
is just a 10-mile run, but you
could enter it and perhaps not
get to the other end for days,
even weeks. That has happened.
Honest. We're on Hwy 12 again,
about 10 miles west of I-5. You
take a right immediately after
crossing the Mokelumne River swing
bridge. This will take you past
B & W Resort (long ago, there
was a cannery here) and you will
pass under Hwy 12.
There
are over 20 waterside resorts along
this stretch of levee road, Brannan
Island Road by name. They offer most
anything you might require, from overnight
accommodations to pizza, from overnight
guest docking for you and your boat
to full-hookup RV sites for your land
yacht. You can dine sumptuously at
a floating bistro (Moore's Riverboat),
dine casually at The Lighthouse Restaurant,
swim in the pool or play tennis on
the tennis courts of your campground
(Delta Bay Marina), cook up some chow
at your housekeeping cabin (B & W
Resort -- say, was that Kevin Costner
I just saw fueling his skiboat), boogie
on the dance floors of one of the places
with weekend music, or just sit on
the river bank and fish for stripers
or catfish and watch the Chris-Crafts
go by.
This
is Andrus Island you are on. The crops
are a-growing, and you can see farmers
tilling the fields. The sunsets are
beautiful here, and if the timing is
right, they can lend a warm glow to
a passing rust-bucket freighter, heading
upstream to the Port of Stockton. Korth's
Pirates Lair was probably the first
resort in the Delta, and it still is
run by third-generation family (4th
generation at ready too). Stop by for
breakfast at the marina cafe and enjoy
all the flowers around this beautifully
landscaped marina. Something always
is in bloom here.
The
Delta Loop Association plans a gala
celebration each spring with live music
and other activities at many of the
resorts. The celebration takes place
the first weekend of May.
Heading
home, take a right on Jackson Slough
Rd., which takes you back to Hwy 12.
Left (west) on Hwy 12 takes you to
Rio Vista, right takes you to I-5,
past bustling Tower Park Marina, in
what once was the ghost town of Terminous.
You can't miss the place, for the old
water tower there reminds you of its
heyday as a produce shipping center.
Take a left just past Tower Park onto
Glasscock Road and in about a mile
you will be at Westgate Landing, a
county park.
South
Delta Hinterlands. The
biggest of the reclaimed Delta
islands is 32,500-acre Roberts
Island. Nowhere in the entire Delta
can you get the essence of the
isolation that the early settlers
of these reclaimed islands must
have felt than by driving on Roberts
Island south of Hwy 4, to the west
of the San Joaquin River. Those
pioneers were really isolated.
And by driving here, you can begin
to understand why they rejoiced
and had such a big party when the
Roberts Island Drawbridge was completed
in 1898, providing a means for
them to take the horse and buggy
to town when the buggies weren't
mired deep in mud from the winter
rains. You'll understand too why
the farm ladies in the Holt region
enjoyed catching the train into
Stockton from the Holt Station
to do their weekly shopping. (It
is said that ladies-of-the-evening
also came out on these trains to
brighten the lives of the farm
workers around Holt.) You'll understand
too why it was such a big deal
when the Borden - Delta road was
built in 1917 (much of it is on
the present Hwy 4 route) to make
it possible to actually drive across
the Delta from east to west (and,
through Stockton and on to Yosemite)
weather permitting. Oh, those were
handsome new drawbridges installed
across Old River and Middle River,
and they still look handsome today,
although the Middle River structure
no longer operates as a drawbridge.
You
can cruise Hwy 4, headed west out of
Stockton. For a little aside loop cruise,
take a right (north) on Inland Drive,
and follow the roadway through a couple
of name changes and a couple of turns.
If it is spring time, you are apt to
see cropduster airplanes landing and
taking off from a little roadside landing
field. If it is winter, you will see
hawks, sitting on top of the utility
poles, keeping an eye out for their
next meal. If it is March or April,
you surely will see asparagus cutters,
out in the fields cutting 'gras. It
is back breaking work.
Keep
on the road and you will come to the
unique sliding-span drawbridge across
Turner Cut (you won't be crossing it).
Ahead lies Tiki Lagun Marina. Good
boat slips, nice campground. Shoulder
to shoulder with it, is Turner Cut
Resort, comfortable berths, fun restaurant,
tree-shaded campground. Continue on
the road and off to your left is 52-acre
Lost Isle, home of the Bikini Contests
and Wet T-Shirt Contests (you need
a boat to get there). Now you are driving
alongside the Stockton Deepwater Channel.
Maybe you will see a freighter. Keep
going along the Channel and you will
snake your way into Windmill Cove Marina.
Have a hamburger and enjoy it at a
table on the elevated deck. You can
see everything from there, even north
Stockton in the distance. The Cove
has a nice beachside campground. One
year, a big crew of television's A-Team came
to Windmill Cove. They transformed
it into a cantina on the Amazon River.
They were there for about two weeks
filming a special 2-hour segment of
the show.
Backtrack
a mile, then take a left on Holt Road,
which ultimately will take you under
a narrow railroad underpass (a part
of the old Borden - Delta Hwy route).
At the stop sign, if you go right,
you arrive at Whiskey Slough Harbor,
a comfortable marina with a launching
ramp. Take a left at the stop and if
you blink, you will miss what is left
of the town of Holt (it has a post
office, in a mobilehome) and a saloon
(oh, I could tell you stories about
hours spent in that saloon). The intersection
back at that stop sign is a little
confusing, but one way or another you
will end up back at Hwy 4, perhaps
a couple miles west of where you turned
onto Inland Drive.
Go
left (east) on Hwy 4, take a right
on Inland Drive and enter the hinterlands
of the South Delta. You'll pass the
abode of one farmer who has a pair
of completely renovated and detailed
Harvester tractors set up high on posts
flanking the driveway to his home.
At Kingston Road, a dead-end, you'll
note the old one-room vintage-1904
Kingston Schoolhouse, that now serves
as a residence. There is a lot of territory
out here on
Roberts Island, but no resorts. Just
consult a map (AAA's road map is a good
one) and take roads that look interesting
to you. Imagine the early days of levee
building when this island was being reclaimed
and the huge work forces required. To
the east is the San Joaquin River, to
the south Middle River and then Old River,
all three at one time busy with riverboat
traffic. Middle River curls around and
passes Hwy 4 next to Union Point Resort,
where it's fun to dine on the outside
deck in the summer.
There
is a site on the San Joaquin River
where 15 or 20 years ago the rickety
Brandt Bridge crossed the river. Nearby
is the Matthews Road fixed bridge that
replaced it. In a dramatic scene in
the movie Cool Hand Luke,
Paul Newman was trying to escape prison
over that old bridge. He holed up in
a building on the west side of the
river, a building that still stands,
barely. Your ramblings might take you
near the old Holly Sugar plant, where
sugar beets once were barged in by
boat, taken up the dead-end Sugar Cut
to a "beet dump." Maybe you'll
pass in the area of the Grantline Canal,
where just west of Tracy
Blvd. Tracy Oasis Marina holds court
there, and has a comfortable restaurant
and saloon where locals gather. Maybe
you'll end up at the San Joaquin River
where Interstate 5 crosses, at a point
where there are five bridges over the
river in the space of no more than a
quarter-mile. Stop in for a respite and
beverage at Mossdale Marina, home of
the annual Mossdale Crawdad Races. Across
the river, pause to examine a historical
monument. Hey, when the railroad bridge
here was completed in 1869, trains crossed
the river and the Transcontinental Railroad
was considered complete, although no
golden spikes were pounded here. You
could take a couple hours or four hours
to prowl this territory, and it would
be time well spent. You would have gained
insight.
The
River Road. You
can take I-5 from Stockton to Sacramento
and it takes no more than 40 minutes
to get there. However, it's a lot
more fun taking the more engaging
route along the river. Cut over
by taking the Thornton-Walnut Grove
Road exit west off
I-5, passing over the Mokelumne's South
Fork at Wimpy's Marina, then over the
North Fork at Giusti's. Pick up the
river at Walnut Grove, then drive along
its east side, through Locke and then
Courtland. There are some beautiful
old restored homes along the river.
Pass through the sleepy town of Hood,
then Cliff's Marina, where for years
the owner made a living trapping crawdads,
and you can still buy them there.
Next up is the Freeport Bridge. Pass
the bridge and go into Freeport to look
around. It has a fine marina (Freeport
Marina) bait shops, saloons and a nice
restaurant. There's a nice golf course
on the downstream side of town.
Backtrack
to the bridge and cross over it. Turn
right after crossing the bridge. If
it is in late April or May, you are
apt to see 100 or more anglers fishing
for American Shad. The river bank is
heavy with shade trees. You will pass
by several marinas, and then the Sacramento
Yacht Club. You might see an excursion
train on the railroad tracks that run
along a portion of the river. But the
most interesting aspect of this part
of the cruise is the mailboxes along
the route. They are novel, made from
things around the barnyard -- plowshares,
grindstone wheels, etc. You'll eventually
have to leave the river, taking a left,
and then a right onto Jefferson Blvd.
You will cross over the Sacramento
Lock (officially the William B. Stone
Lock) which is in retirement. Follow
the Boulevard, take a right onto Capitol
Road and you will pass over the beautiful
Tower Bridge, opened in 1935. Directly
across the river is Old Sacramento,
where it all began, in what Augustus
Sutter referred to as "The Embarcadero." Old
Sac' is a restored section of town,
with plenty to see.
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